Hello, fellow makers! I am absolutely thrilled to share a project that has been a true labor of love and a joy to design: the Crochet Sunflower Baby Dress. When I envisioned this dress, I wanted something truly special—an heirloom piece that feels cherished, yet is practical enough for everyday wear. And let me tell you, this dress delivers on all fronts!
The golden mustard color just glows, and the delicate lace skirt has such lovely movement. But the real stars are those cheerful sunflower motifs! They create such a stunning focal point at the waist and hem, bringing a touch of sunshine to any little one’s wardrobe. This pattern is designed to be a rewarding challenge for intermediate crocheters, offering clear instructions and checkpoints to guide you every step of the way. You’ll learn some wonderful garment construction techniques, including working top-down, creating a seamless join, and assembling intricate motifs. If you’ve made at least one garment before and are comfortable with a few special stitches, you are absolutely ready for this!
Crochet Sunflower Baby Dress Pattern
Skill Level
Intermediate to Advanced Intermediate
This pattern requires comfort with working in the round, reading stitch repeats, constructing granny squares, clean color changes, and motif assembly. Familiarity with bobble or cluster stitches is also needed for the sunflower motifs.
Time Estimate
Approximately 18 to 25 hours for an experienced intermediate crocheter, including motif construction and finishing.
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for size 12 months, fitting approximately 18 to 20 pounds or 8 to 9 kilograms. Measurements are after light blocking:
- Chest: 18 inches (46 cm) or 9 inches (23 cm) across when laid flat
- Length from shoulder to hem: 16 inches (40.5 cm)
- Sleeve opening circumference: 5 inches (12.5 cm)
- Neckline circumference: 11 inches (28 cm)
Materials
Yarn
- Main Color (MC) Golden Mustard: approximately 400 to 450 yards (366 to 411 meters), worsted weight
- Color A (CA) Dark Brown: approximately 30 yards (27 meters)
- Color B (CB) Bright Golden Yellow: approximately 30 yards (27 meters)
- Color C (CC) Leaf Green: approximately 20 yards (18 meters)
Whatever yarn you choose, ensure it is machine washable and safe for sensitive baby skin. Avoid yarns with mohair content.
Yarn Suggestions
- Lion Brand Pound of Love (Mustard colorway): 100% acrylic, machine washable, soft.
- Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (Mustard Yellow colorway) held double: achieves a worsted equivalent gauge with excellent stitch definition for lace.
- WeCrochet Brava Worsted: 100% premium acrylic, machine washable and dryer safe at low heat. Use Canary for MC, Chocolate for CA, Caution for CB, and Peapod for CC.
Hook and Tools
- US size G-6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to match gauge
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Two buttons, 0.5 inch (12 mm), natural or cream color
- Sewing needle and thread to match MC
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- beg — beginning
- bo — bobble (see Special Stitches below)
- BLO — back loop only
- ch — chain
- ch-sp — chain space
- dc — double crochet
- hdc — half double crochet
- MC — main color (golden mustard)
- CA — color A (dark brown)
- CB — color B (bright golden yellow)
- CC — color C (leaf green)
- pm — place marker
- rep — repeat
- rnd — round
- RS — right side
- sc — single crochet
- sk — skip
- sl st — slip stitch
- sp — space
- st(s) — stitch(es)
- WS — wrong side
- yo — yarn over
Pattern Notes
- The dress is worked top down. The yoke begins flat in rows to create the back button placket opening, then joins to work in the round from the underarm down.
- Stitch markers are essential. Mark the four raglan increase points on the yoke and the center front of the bodice and skirt.
- The waistline band consists of 9 sunflower motifs joined in a ring. The skirt grows downward from this band.
- The hem border consists of 9 sunflower motifs joined in a ring, with scallops worked between each motif.
- When working color changes for motifs, always join new color with a slip stitch and fasten off cleanly unless instructed to carry.
- For rows of sc, ch 1 and turn. The ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch in this pattern. For rows of dc, ch 3 and turn. The ch 3 DOES count as the first dc.
Gauge
Getting gauge right is critical for this garment. Please swatch, wash, dry, and then measure before beginning.
- In single crochet flat: 18 sc by 20 rows = 4 × 4 inches (10 × 10 cm)
- In fan shell lace pattern: 2 fan repeats (12 stitches) by 4 rows = 4 × 2.5 inches (10 × 6.3 cm)
- One completed sunflower motif (blocked flat) measures approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter
A gauge that is even slightly off will significantly affect the chest circumference and overall length. Do not skip the swatch!
Special Stitches
These are the special techniques you will use throughout the pattern. Reading through them before starting will help you feel confident.
Bobble (bo)
Yarn over, insert hook into stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. You now have one incomplete double crochet on your hook. Repeat this sequence 4 more times into the same stitch or space, keeping all loops on hook. You should have 6 loops on your hook total. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops. Pull snugly. One bobble counts as 1 stitch.
Fan Shell
Work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all into the same stitch or chain space. This creates a 5 dc fan with ch 1 separating each dc. The fan occupies 6 stitches of the previous row or round when centered. You skip 2 stitches, work the fan into the next stitch, then skip 2 more.
Scallop
Work (sc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, sc) all into the same stitch or space. This creates a pretty shell shape used at the hem border between sunflower motifs.
Shell (3 dc shell)
Work (dc, dc, dc) all into same stitch or space.
Picot
Ch 3, then slip stitch into the first chain of that ch 3.
V-stitch (V-st)
Work (dc, ch 2, dc) all into the same stitch or chain space.
Instructions
How to Make the Sunflower Motif
You will make 20 of these sunflowers total, so it is worth getting comfortable with the technique. Each finished motif is approximately 2 inches (5 cm) across after blocking.
Round 1 (center, CA): Make a magic ring or ch 4 and join with sl st to form ring. Ch 1, work 8 sc into ring, join with sl st to first sc. (8 sc)
Round 2 (CA): Ch 1, work 2 sc into each sc around, join with sl st to first sc. (16 sc)
Round 3 (inner petal setup, CB): Join CB into any sc. Ch 1. In each sc around, work 1 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off CB temporarily but do not cut. Carry loosely or use a separate length. (16 sc)
Round 4 (petals, CB): Do not turn. Working in front of Round 3, reattach CB to the first sc of Round 2, which is the round below Round 3. Insert your hook under the sc from Round 2. Ch 1. Work the following into each sc of Round 2: (sc, ch 2, sc). Join with sl st. (32 sts, 16 ch 2 loops forming inner ring of petals)
Round 5 (outer petals, CB): Sl st into first ch 2 sp. Ch 1. In each ch 2 sp from Round 4 work (sc, hdc, bo, hdc, sc). Join with sl st to first sc. (16 petals, 80 sts total)
Round 6 (green border, CC): Join CC between any two petals, in the sc that sits between petals. Ch 1. Work sc in same sp, then ch 3, skip the 5 st petal group, sc between next petals. Repeat around. (16 ch 3 arches)
Round 7 (CC): Sl st into first ch 3 arch. Ch 1. Work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into each ch 3 arch around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (16 leaf bumps, 80 sts)
Weave in ends and block each motif flat to exactly 2 inches (5 cm).
Section 1: Yoke
The yoke is worked flat in rows first to establish the back opening, then joined into a round.
Set up: With MC and hook, ch 55.
Row 1 (RS): Sc into 2nd ch from hook and into each ch across. Turn. (54 sc)
This is the neckline edge. Place stitch markers at positions 10, 19, 36, and 45 counting from the right edge. These four markers designate your raglan points. You now have five sections: right back (9 sts), right sleeve (9 sts), front (17 sts), left sleeve (9 sts), left back (9 sts).
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across all 54 sts. (54 sc)
Row 3 (RS, increase row): Ch 1, turn. Sc to 1 st before first marker, (sc, sc) into next st, slip marker up, sc into marker st, (sc, sc) into next st. Continue this pattern at each of the four marker points. Sc to end. (8 increases, 62 sc)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across all sts, slipping markers. (62 sc)
Row 5 (RS, increase row): Repeat Row 3 increases at all four markers. (70 sc)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (70 sc)
Row 7 (RS, increase row): Repeat Row 3 increases. (78 sc)
Row 8 (WS): Sc across. (78 sc)
Row 9 (RS, increase row): Repeat Row 3 increases. (86 sc)
Row 10 (WS): Sc across. (86 sc)
Row 11 (RS, increase row): Repeat Row 3 increases. (94 sc)
Row 12 (WS): Sc across. (94 sc)
Row 13 (RS, increase row): Repeat Row 3 increases. (102 sc)
Row 14 (WS): Sc across. (102 sc)
Checkpoint: Your yoke should measure approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall from the foundation chain and 18 inches (45.5 cm) wide across the last row.
Section 2: Joining the Bodice and Separating Sleeves
Row 15 (RS, separation row): Ch 1, turn. Work across right back 15 sts. Place next 21 sts (right sleeve) onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn. Ch 4 to bridge the underarm. Work across front 29 sts. Place next 21 sts (left sleeve) onto holder. Ch 4 for left underarm bridge. Work across left back 15 sts. (64 sc working sts plus 8 ch sts in underarm bridges equals 72 sts when joined)
Join: Without turning, ch 4 to form the back closing chain. Fold the work so RS faces outward. Join left back edge to right back edge with a sl st, leaving a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) opening at center back for the button band overlap. Place marker at join.
Round 16: Ch 1 (does not count as st). Sc in each st and each ch around, working 4 sc across each underarm bridge chain. Join with sl st to first sc. (72 sc)
Round 17: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (72 sc)
Round 18: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (72 sc)
Section 3: Waistline Sunflower Band
Round 19: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (72 dc)
Round 20: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st around. Join. (72 dc)
Now make 9 sunflower motifs using the instructions above. Join them into a ring using the join as you go method on Round 7. When working the last leaf bump of each motif, insert your hook through the corresponding ch 3 arch of the adjacent motif simultaneously and sl st to join.
Sew the completed sunflower band ring to Round 20 of the bodice using MC and yarn needle. Space the 9 motifs evenly, which works out to every 8 stitches of Round 20 aligning with one motif center. Pin all motifs before sewing.
Section 4: Skirt Lace Section
Attach MC to the bottom edge of the sunflower waistband ring.
Round 1 of Skirt (foundation): Join MC with sc into bottom of any motif. Work sc evenly around the lower border of all 9 motifs, placing 8 sc per motif bottom edge. Join with sl st. (72 sc)
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (72 dc)
Round 3 (begin fan lace): Ch 1. Sc in first st. *Skip 2 dc, Fan Shell into next dc, skip 2 dc, sc into next dc.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 fan shells, 12 anchor sc)
Round 4: Ch 3. Dc into ch 1 sp of first fan, (ch 1, dc) into each ch 1 sp of same fan shell. Ch 2. Dc into anchor sc. Ch 2. *(Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) into center ch 1 sp of next fan shell. Ch 2. Dc into anchor sc. Ch 2.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (12 fans with dc columns between, 24 ch 2 sps)
Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in first ch 2 sp. *(Fan Shell into center ch 1 sp of fan from previous round, sc into ch 2 sp, sc into dc column, sc into next ch 2 sp)* Repeat from * to * around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 fans plus 36 sc anchor sts)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Working across Round 5, dc into each sc anchor, into each dc of each fan, and into each ch 1 sp of each fan. Join. (144 dc)
Round 7 (second fan tier): Ch 1. Sc in first dc. *Skip 2 dc, Fan Shell into next dc, skip 2 dc, sc into next dc.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 fan shells, 24 anchor sc)
Round 8: Ch 3. *(Dc into ch 1 sps of fan, ch 2 between fans into anchor sc, ch 2)* Repeat from * to * around. Join. (24 fans continued)
Round 9: Ch 1. Sc in first ch 2 sp. *(Fan Shell into center ch 1 sp of fan, sc into ch 2 sp, sc into dc, sc into ch 2 sp)* Repeat from * to * around. Join. (24 fans plus 72 sc)
Round 10 (solid dc reset): Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc into each st and ch sp around. Join. (288 dc)
Checkpoint: After Round 10, the piece should measure approximately 8 inches (20 cm) from the shoulder.
Section 5: Hem Border and Scallop Edging
Round 11: Ch 1. Sc in each dc around. Join. (288 sc)
Round 12: (Sc in next 14 sc, sc2tog) 18 times. Join. (270 sc)
Make 9 more sunflower motifs and block them. Pin the 9 motifs evenly around the skirt at Round 12, leaving 21 free sc sts between each pair of adjacent motifs. Sew the top border of each motif to Round 12.
Round 13 (hem scallop edging): Attach MC at the bottom edge of any hem motif’s CC border. Ch 1. Sc across bottom of motif (8 sc), then between motifs work: ch 3, skip 2 sts, sc into next st, (ch 3, skip 2, sc) across the 21 free sts to next motif. Repeat around all 9 motifs. Join.
Round 14 (scallop shells): Sl st into first ch 3 arch. Ch 1. (Sc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, sc) into each ch 3 arch around. Between arches adjacent to motif bottoms, work 1 sl st into the motif join. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off MC.
Section 6: Sleeve Edging
Place the 21 held sleeve sts back on hook. Attach MC to underarm.
Round 1: Ch 1. Sc across 21 held sleeve sts, then work 4 sc into the underarm bridge chain. Join with sl st. (25 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (25 sc)
Round 3 (picot edging): Sc in first st. *(Picot, sk 1, sc in next st)* Repeat from * to * around. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Section 7: Neckline Edging
Attach MC to right edge of back opening at the neckline.
Row 1 (button band, right side): Ch 1. Work 8 sc evenly down the right back opening edge. Turn. (8 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in each of 8 sc. Turn. (8 sc)
Row 3 (buttonholes): Ch 1. Sc in 2 sc. (Ch 2, sk 2, sc in 2 sc) twice. Turn. (2 ch 2 sps formed)
Row 4: Ch 1. Sc in 2 sc. (2 sc into ch 2 sp, sc in 2 sc) twice. Fasten off. (8 sc)
Attach MC to left back opening at bottom edge. Work 4 rows of sc (8 sc each, no buttonholes) as a plain button band. Fasten off.
Neckline round: Attach MC to top right corner of right button band. Ch 1. Work sc evenly along the right band top, across the neckline foundation chain (approximately 54 sc), and down the left band. Work (sc, ch 1, sc) at each corner. Join with sl st to first sc. Work one round of picot edging. Fasten off.
Section 8: Shoulder Sunflower Embellishments
Make 2 additional sunflower motifs. Place one at each shoulder, centered over the raglan yoke line, with the bottom of the motif sitting just at the armhole edge. Sew in place using CC yarn and a yarn needle.
Finishing Your Crochet Baby Dress
- Weave in all ends securely using a yarn needle. Bury ends at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) in matching color fabric before trimming.
- Sew the two buttons to the left back button band, aligning them with the buttonholes in the right band. Use sewing thread doubled and sew a small fabric scrap or felt circle behind each button on the inside to prevent the buttons from pulling through.
- Button placement: First button at 1 inch (2.5 cm) from top of neckline. Second button at 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) from top of neckline.
Blocking
Wet blocking is strongly recommended. Submerge the finished dress in cool water for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Roll in a dry towel to remove most moisture. Lay flat on a blocking mat or clean dry towels. Use rust proof pins to pin the dress to the finished dimensions. Pin the scallop hem to open the fans fully. Allow to dry completely, 24 to 48 hours.
Care Instructions
- Machine wash cold on gentle cycle.
- Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry unless yarn label specifies dryer safe.
- Do not iron.
- Do not bleach.
Size Customization Tips
- For 6 months (chest 16 inches or 40.5 cm): Reduce starting chain to 49 sts. Work 11 increase rows in the yoke instead of 13. Adjust to 60 dc after joining, using 10 fan repeats.
- For 18 months (chest 20 inches or 51 cm): Increase starting chain to 61 sts. Work 15 increase rows in the yoke. After joining, the round should have 84 sc (14 fan repeats).
- For length adjustment: Each solid dc round adds approximately 0.5 inches (1.25 cm). Each fan tier adds approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm). Add or subtract full fan tiers to adjust total length.
Emma’s Tips
This Sunflower Baby Dress is truly a special project, and I know you’ll love making it. My biggest tip for this pattern, especially with the motifs, is to embrace the process. Don’t rush through the sunflower construction; each one is a little work of art! Using stitch markers for your raglan increases and marking the center front will save you so much time and ensure your yoke stays perfectly symmetrical. And remember to block your sunflower motifs individually before joining them – it makes a huge difference in their final appearance and ease of assembly. Finally, enjoy seeing this beautiful garment come to life, stitch by stitch. It’s a piece that will surely be treasured!